Kouprey Adventures aim to provide genuine experiences to guests travelling with us, be it local interactions, finding a hidden gem you may never have expected or stopping at a real local restaurant to experiment with unfamiliar authentic cuisine. As a result some of our personal trips have a goal in mind but may go to places many have never heard of, but that’s part of the excitement.
Back in 2019 we had the pleasure of accompanying some clients doing a recce for a bigger trip which involved a helicopter based scavenger hunt around the north of Cambodia, visiting various remote temples along the way. As well as visiting the stunning temple of Preah Vihear, perched atop a precipice in the Dangrek Mountains right on the border with Thailand, which has over the years been much disputed and the pyramid temple of Koh Ker with its unique formation, on that day we also visited the very remote Preah Khan Kompong Svay. This is not to be mistaken with the temple with a similar name within the Angkor complex in Siem Reap. Preah Khan Kampong Svay (or Prasat Bakan complex, as the locals know it) is a very remote temple which until recently was really only reachable by dirt bike or helicopter. According to our Pilot on that day we were the first people to land there in a Helicopter in 15 years! Thankfully now there is a reasonably well graded dirt road. Ever since that wonderful trip I had promised to make it back there on two wheels one day, Covid19 gave me that opportunity.
The temple itself is an incredibly atmospheric experience as you are almost certainly going to have the pleasure of having it all to yourself, even in peak times. The old entrance guards are very friendly and almost surprised to see foreigners turn up and remain seated smoking away on their local cigarettes. Other temples claim to be really quiet and forgotten but this one really is. When walking through the grounds, you are greeted with birdsong and calls of the forest and very little else. The temple is not as well preserved as some of its Angkorian counterparts near Siem Reap but that possibly down to logistics, however there is still plenty to see of the remaining temples within the Boray moat structure.
As history has it, the temple itself was built roughly between the 10th and 12th centuries. It was a provincial city that functioned as a way station linking the central area of Angkor, specifically Angkor Thom. It was located along the ancient Royal Road and had well organized town planning in order to facilitate the production of Iron which was produced within the complex itself. This was aided by the town being in close proximity to iron rich resources, therefore the area was a hub of industry.
After an awe inspiring visit to the vast temple complex there are a couple of other points of interest not to be missed whilst in the area (rather than heading back to Siem Reap). We decided to stay overnight at the quirky but welcoming Betreed Adventures. Betreed is the creation of Ben and Sharyn and their family. They have been living out in this remote location for years protecting one of the last major stands of primary forest in Cambodia and with great importance to the country’s biodiversity. Arrival is a slightly surreal with an array of animals to greet you, including Ponies, three legged dogs, storks, Peacocks, monkeys, a squirrel (Bobby) and a friendly (ish) Gibbon called Molly, who for some reason doesn’t like western men with short hair, she was ever present at every meal time keeping a very watchful eye on us.
When staying at Betreed, certainly choose the Tree house. It is a really wild experience, staying the night 9 meters up in a tree listening to the sounds of the forest, who knows you may even be greeted by Bobby the squirrel as your wake up call. The accommodation is basic but comfortable. It really is a nature lover’s dream and there are a variety of activities to undertake whilst there, including a walk up a trail to an ancient Angkor era temple on a hillside. The round trip trek up to the old French Flagpole and back through the bamboo groves and thick forest with a trained guide is a real treat and if you are lucky you’ll pass through a glade thick with colourful butterflies. A trip to the local swimming hole for a refreshing dip completes the forest experience….almost. To complete the activities the zipline is very much a hidden surprise, where upon initial inspection it is very unassuming, the sweeping views that you are welcomed with when on the pair of 300m Ziplines are well worth a second try.
The food is part of the experience and delightful vegetarian meals are rustled up by Sharyn, it is real home cooking and you will most likely share with the family depending on how many guests they have. This is a great chance to find out more about their way of life here in the jungle and an insight into the activities they perform to protect the forest…most likely Molly will be watching close by.
The whole area is very much undeveloped by tourism so each local interaction as you pass through the nearby villages is very genuine. The local people are very interested in where you have come from and where you are going. On this occasion our trip led us cross country, eventually leading back to Bang Maelea, which was a great ride through the very rural Preah Vihear province. Out in these parts don’t expect much in the way of western concept restaurants, primarily, food is served in small shacks on the roadside or people eat at home, mostly rice, fried meat and sour soups. So the filling meals at Betreed were well remembered. After a further day of long riding in the saddle we came to the end of this trip and celebrated as always with an ice cold beer with people watching on the corner by Pub Street. Now it’s time to get back into the office and begin to create and share these great new experiences with our partners and guests.
