The ride down was a great ride apart from one freak storm that swept across the road at Skuon (famous for its fried spiders), and soaked us to the bone, making the rest of the trip to Phnom Penh pretty soggy going. To break the journey (and dry out) we overnighted in the capital city and caught up with some industry friends as well as did extensive research to update our famous foodie tour.
Then next morning after a street side breakfast of Bai Sach Jerouk (pork and rice) as well as a Vietnamese coffee, we continued south on smooth and newly resurfaced roads to Kampot, the pretty riverside town with a quaint French colonial centre. The weather was perfect for a few days of exploring and we were excited to be back after time away.
Even during the height of Covid in 2020, Kampot has managed to keep open and the historical centre is bustling with local commerce, but very laid back. The town remains largely unchanged since our last visit pre covid, apart from new bars and restaurants changing their names, which is a constant in Cambodia. Interestingly there are a couple of great properties that have opened their doors in the last couple of years expanding accommodation options in the region. Namely the Amber Kampot, just across the river from the main town on fish island is an exciting new 5 star property addition, allowing discerning guests a place to stay and relax and enjoy the amenities it offers in its 170sqm private pool villas set in lush gardens. Another place to note is the Hotel Old Cinema, a carefully designed boutique property in the centre of town, housed in a converted cinema. The rooms are large and light, there is a great restaurant and it’s a short walk from the town’s pedestrian area. In addition the good news is that the town’s popular long running hotels are still going, including the ever popular Rikitikitavi, Kampot Boutique and The Columns.
Next it was time to check out the river, which for me is one of the main highlights of a visit to Kampot. It is quite stunning heading up river with Bokor Mountain as the backdrop with a cold beer in hand. There has been lots of development in recent years but the riverbanks remain lush and green giving a sense of wilderness. There is plenty to see along the way with bars, and local restaurants lining the riverbanks. One of our favourites is Nibi Spa where you are able to relax and unwind with the friendly hosts and their extensive array of wellness treatments. A little further along there are options for trekking along a hidden valley, climbing steadily through banana plantations. Don’t forget the tranquil kayaking to be had around some of the smaller channels and tributaries, certainly not to be missed in a morning of viewing local flora and fauna in a beautiful and tranquil setting.
A trip to Kampot is not complete without a visit to the infamous Bokor Mountain, with many of the buildings from the old French hill station still remain in the mist as an eerie reminder of the historic past. Unlike the days of old the road is now a smooth ride all the way up and has been this way for over 10 years. There are still pleasant short treks available to hidden waterfalls in the jungle we’ve researched and led adventurous guests to enjoy. The views of the Cambodian coastline are also fantastic when the mountain isn’t shrouded in clouds with a high viewpoint over stunning seas. There is however a lot of development going on at the top of the mountain with expansive leveling of the natural forest primarily undertaken by large Chinese developers, some of the buildings are rather dystopian looking standing bleak amidst the mist. Quite what the final development will look like is not really clear, but what is clear is that Bokor will never be the same again.
A trip out to Fish Island is a worthy way to spend some time, visit the excellent community centre before heading out to explore the expansive salt fields, a great location for those instagram shots in the right season. If you are an avid fan of food then a cooking class amongst the salt fields is a great way to spend an afternoon, once you have finished shopping for the goods in Kampots local market with our culinary tour here.
The evenings in Kampot can be spent in a number of ways, whiling away time at a river front bar watching the fishing trawlers head out for the night at sunset, or dining in one of its fantastic eateries such as Twenty Three Bistro, alternatively we’ve hired a boat and cruise the river as the sun descends, food and drink abound with even the option of live music for our guests.
Kampot is world famous for its pepper production and no trip to the town is complete without a trip to the surrounding pepper plantations for an insight into what makes this valuable spice thrive here. Tour a plantation then have lunch on the balcony of the old wooden plantation house overlooking the pepper vines and trellises. Complete this immersive experience with a full pepper tasting and decide which is your favourite type, for me the fresh green pepper is a must try as its not easily available elsewhere (at least not freshly picked).
Kep is a small seaside town famous for its seafood (in particular crab), with evidence of former colonial glory. I love to ride around the largely derelict French quarter with its avenues lined with garden walls surrounding their once majestic, now crumbling villas. Keep a look out as you wander around for decaying villas hidden in the trees. Take a stroll around the bustling crab market and a lunch of delightfully fresh steaming crab meat accompanied with some of Kampot’s green peppercorns. Take time to take a short trek through the beautiful Kep National Park. Stroll along the long promenade and spend some time on Kep beach with the locals, there are a range of snacks to try, a great place to people watch. If there is time a boat trip to Rabbit Island or similar can be a great way to spend the day. Even this untouched island is now beginning to be developed and will see a number of changes in the coming months/years, beginning with a new pier already under construction. Wading on to the beach from your small wooden boat is becoming more and more difficult to find but we know some spots where it’s still possible away from the tourists and crowds.
There are other significant developments going on in Kep as a huge beach widening project is well underway at breakneck speed. Sadly this is taking place in front of our favourite Kep properties. The development is moving fast so we are keeping a close eye on what is happening and will update once things are looking better, but it will change the place and we’e yet to know for the better.
There are more hidden mountain pools and caves dotted around the area that are worth a visit but not easy to find. As it expands as a destination it is developing as a hub of adventure activities namely SUP Boarding, Kiteboarding and climbing in the nearby Damrei mountains. Both towns are developing fast and certainly retain a certain beauty and sense of place. I feel this destination will go from strength to strength as long as there is thought given to planning and development, the future’s looking bright. To learn more about our research trip or schedule a private customized destination training and country update please email us at [email protected]
