Angkor Wat Without Tourists

The year 2020 has certainly been a year of surprises, not in the least with the onset of Covid19 and the subsequent global lockdown. As a consequence the travel industry has ultimately been devastated, with many companies struggling to survive during these extraordinarily lean times. Nowhere has this been felt more than in the developing world where the government safety nets and subsidies are simply not available to regular SME’s and individuals as they have been in some of the developed western nations. I would like to give an idea of what it has been like living in Cambodia during these tough times.
Angkor Wat Without Tourists

The year 2020 has certainly been a year of surprises, not in the least with the onset of Covid19 and the subsequent global lockdown. As a consequence the travel industry has ultimately been devastated, with many companies struggling to survive during these extraordinarily lean times. Nowhere has this been felt more than in the developing world where the government safety nets and subsidies are simply not available to regular SME’s and individuals as they have been in some of the developed western nations. I would like to give an idea of what it has been like living in Cambodia during these tough times.

Siem Reap Airport
Siem Reap Airport – completely empty, photo by Richard Casswell

Here in our home in Cambodia the distinct lack of tourists is really beginning to show now we are into month five of lack of flights and the non-issuance of tourist visas. The only people who are entering the country have to jump through many hoops and are here for their families or business activities. I would like to mention a couple of positives however; firstly, we have seen a rise in domestic tourism nationally, mainly to provincial destinations such as the popular Kampot and Kep, Mondulkiri or Battambang and even as far afield as Ratanakiri. Khmers who are on reduced working hours and with a growing middle class are using this down time to travel extensively throughout their homeland like never before.

Secondly, cycling has fast become the preferred pastime of Local people in Siem Reap especially. With people taking advantage of the significant drop in tourist related traffic, most early mornings will see many groups cycling at leisure around the Angkor temples as the roads are flat and well paved. The cool morning air allows families to escape the heat and still get out for exercise. We very much hope this will continue and help improve the nation’s health. Apsara Authorities have been installing cycle lanes around the area too, as well as working on many other projects to improve the accessibility and appearance of the Angkor Park, when the tourists return there will be plenty of changes visible. Siem Reap roads and infrastructure is also being greatly improved during this lull which will make the town in general easier to navigate once things return to some normality in the not too distance future.

Angkor Wat During Covid-19
Angkor Wat during Covid-19, photo by Richard Casswell

Here at Kouprey Adventures we have not been standing still during this time and have also used it to explore further around the country as well as locally including visits to the famous Temples of Angkor. Back at the end of March and early April when the borders had just closed there was certainly a fear present in town and as the famous Pub Street fell silent, businesses closed up and people stayed at home we went out to explore (social distancing wasn’t an issue as there were no people out and about), as the temples never closed.

I must confess it was a very eerie feeling exploring the magnificent temple complexes completely alone (except a couple of monks and one drink seller). I feel privileged to have seen them in this way, as I normally visit with guests in high season battling the crowds to find the best locations for that perfect photo. On the other hand it was a sad experience as I knew what lasting damage this was going to do to the local economy who rely on this income whether it be directly or indirectly for income.

Things have slowly improved since then however only with visitors from within Cambodia, many expats from Phnom Penh are paying a visit during their down time. Local visitors do not have to pay to visit the sites so little income can be made from them outside of the food vendors nearby.

So far Cambodia has done a great job at keeping Covid19 at bay and within the population here the fear is largely gone, now people are watching the rest of the world to see when business will return once again to the Kingdom of Wonder, it’s going to be a long road ahead but we are confident Cambodia will once more be a able to welcome visitors from around the globe and we here at Kouprey Adventures are ready and eager to welcome our guests once again.

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