An Adventure in Eastern Cambodia

We needed to act fast as a trip to the eastern plains of Cambodia in the wet season can end up being a washout. So too early on a sunny morning we departed Siem Reap with traffic unusually quiet all year with a distinct lack of coaches. After a quick stop at the Angkor era Phreah Toes Bridge in Kampong Kdei, the going to Kampong Cham was smooth passing through miles of rubber plantations. A stop at the interesting Phnom Bros and Phnom Srei Pagodas with their eclectic mix of Buddhist shrines and array of mischievous monkeys made for a great start to the journey. Next stop was Kampong Cham, a sleepy town lazing on the banks of the Mekong River. After a visit to the French built lighthouse and their unique bamboo bridge which has to be re-constructed yearly, we headed over to Koh Pen Island where we made our way to Hanchey Bamboo Resort, our accommodation for the night a 30 minute drive north of town. The resort consists of elegantly constructed bamboo bungalows scattered along the hillside all featuring fantastic views overlooking our Mekong sunsets, perfectly positioned as a wellness resort.

Then off to explore with an early evening walk to Wat Hanchey which sits atop a hill with optimal views of the sunset, perfect to relax peacefully with the sounds of the monks chanting their evening prayers.

Rain was heavy overnight but the morning was cool, fresh and bright so we pressed on east to Mondulkiri. As we headed into the mountains there was a visible increase in jungle foliage as we passed through the Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary (more on that destination another time). Mondulkiri, meaning centre of the mountains in Khmer, is little more than an oversized village spreading out over nearby hills, in it’s centre there is a quaint local market and an old airstrip, remnants of turbulent times long past. This province is the most sparsely populated in the country. Tonight we stayed in Nature Lodge, a rustic sprawling eco-resort consisting of wooden chalets on a hillside. My first visit here was ten years ago and little has changed. Tonight we decided to dine in a local establishment to sample the local fare, it was indeed a very tasty selection of freshly made Khmer samlar machu curries, my personal favourite Kroeung (a delicate mix of spices to make a fine, delicious paste) and seasonal vegetables and spit roasted chicken we went down well with a cold local dark beer. The next day we embarked on a trek to visit nearby waterfalls of the Pnong tribal minority who make up the majority of the population there.

We headed out of town with our local expert Pnong guide in our 4X4, we soon arrived at the end of the main road onto small tracks made slippery by the rain. This is where the true adventure started. After pushing on down a particularly steep and wet slope the vehicle was clearly out of its depth this time, it was time to disembark to  push. After sliding we got our vehicle back to the top of the hill safely and from there on we explored on foot with our packs. Descending into the valley below we turned a corner to be greeted with a beautiful view of mist clad forest dotted with the traditional dwellings of the Pnong minority nestled in the bottom.

They’ve been living in harmony with the land and have industriously created cashew plantations and dry rice crops within the forest while still keeping the valley’s ecosystem healthy. After taking a break next to a beautiful stream it was time to head back out of the valley and on to a visit to an elderly Pnong couples home to find out more about their life and culture. Entering their straw covered hut was a step back in time, complete with earthen floors a small fire inside in the centre topped with various platforms loaded with drying meats such as buffalo and beef jerky as well as smoked fish. Corn is also dried and stored in order to preserve them for leaner times. A genuinely welcoming experience spending time sharing and eating with the lovely couple. Then we headed out through a shortcut through dense forest before we regained the trail.

Mondulkiri is blessed with lush green grassy hilltops creating an almost alpine appearance, these heights are great to enjoy views of the local area and get our bearings. After a quick photo stop of the scenery it was time to visit the local waterfalls for a cooling dip. The Dak Dam waterfall is well hidden away and accessed down a steep staircase, with a great photo opportunity within this little valley’s lost world. Next up was a visit to Monorom Waterfall, a larger more popular site which is very close to town and worth a stop, however get busy with local Khmer visitors on weekends. Saving the best for last, the Bousra Waterfall did not disappoint with its size and power crashing down multiple tiers. Here only the upper pool is swimmable, after that the water plummets off the largest precipice into the valley below with a thunderous crash in the rainy season. A great place to have a picnic on a beautiful sunny day. After this we had a tire blow out on the way back to town, which we were back on the road in minutes followed by more delectable local food then it was time for bed.

That morning we left Senmonorom and Mondulkiri behind and headed along Highway 76, now one of the smoothest roads in the country, it’s come a long way since originally a very remote dirt track. After a quick coffee stop in Kaoh Nheaek we pressed on into the Lumphat Wildlife Sanctuary then crossing the Tonle Srepok River, which is said to be the river that inspired the scenes in the famous movie Apocalypse Now. We arrived in Banlung, the capital of Ratanakiri Province in time for a large bowl of loaded local Kuy Teav flat rice noodles for lunch. That night we stayed at the quiet Green Plateau Lodge, a perfect little hideaway just out of town beyond Kan Seng Lake. A great activity in Ratanakiri is exploring waterfalls as all of the key waterfalls are well marked and within easy reach of the main town.

We began at Cha Ong Waterfall with its pretty crescent cascade, you can clamber around on the rocks behind the water for added fun. Next was Kachanh waterfall, also very pretty with an instagramable rope bridge, but as its closer to town its more popular with locals picnicking and enjoying themselves. For a quieter spot Katieng Waterfall is interesting and well worth a stop. As the afternoon was wearing on what better place to spend the last remaining hours of sunlight other than the infamous and stunning Yeak Laom Lake. This almost spherical Crater Lake was formed by a volcanic eruption in ancient times (that subsequently led to the formation of Ratanakiri Mountains), has previously been voted one of the most beautiful lakes on earth and it never disappoints. We took a walk around the lake in the shade of huge ancient Dipterocarpus and rosewood trees before choosing a platform and taking a refreshing dip in the crystal clear cool waters, a very peaceful and calming experience.

The lake has spiritual significance for the local Tampuan people and is the site of various offerings when someone dies in accordance with their animist beliefs. This evening some more local food was in order in the form of “Janang”, an indigenous dish to Ratanakiri, with many restaurants in town providing their own version. It’s an interesting taste consisting of fermented bamboo shoots, meat, corn and an assortment of other local vegetables and certainly worth a try.

The next day we ventured onto Virachey National Park. We awoke early to meet our friend and expert trekking ranger guide Leam Sou, who took us deep into one of the last unexplored areas in the region, the Virachey National Park, stretching all the way to the borders of Vietnam and Laos. The weather looked ominous as we headed out of town to the ranger station in Ta Veng, a quiet village on the banks of the Tonle San River. As a result of Covid19 it turns out I was the only foreigner to venture up this way and into the park since the end of February, so everyone seemed very happy to see visitors. After a photo opportunity with the local establishment we met our longtail boat driver and began our journey upstream. The river was peaceful within its banks with just a few simple dwellings along the banks and the occasional fisherman or groups of kids jumping from branches. The trip up river was further than I was expecting with very beautiful and lush landscapes, I could tell we were now in a place seldom visited by outsiders. Branching onto the Ta Pok River we meandered our way upstream over riffles and rapids, our driver skillfully navigating the rivers course. Eventually we arrived at a small village consisting of a few wooden houses. Our hosts invited us in for lunch just as the heavens opened and a tremendous thunderstorm began. Our simple lunch of local rice, fried fish and chili paste was presented and we ate whilst sitting on the wooden floor of their home, it was in fact very tasty and filling. By the time our plates were empty the rains had subsided as they do this time of the year. As our time was limited, we had no time to waste, so we booted up to begin the trek to a high viewpoint a several hours away. The trek was great and rather challenging at times as we weaved our way through shockingly green bamboo forests and wet dense jungle. We spent some time tracing the infamous old Ho Chi Minh Trai where you could still see old tire marks in places from long-past visitors. The hardships of those living in the area and using these trails back in those times then became suddenly very real, it’s an incredibly harsh environment. Eventually the trail began to ascend steeply all the way to the rocky outcrop at the top, opening out to a fantastic view of the National Park extending almost to the Vietnamese border. Certainly a worthy mid-point to an already great trek and a place to stop and enjoy refreshing tea. Subsequently we returned to the village and hopped back into the boat downstream. Back in town we had an immense hunger to feed after all day trekking and we stopped by a local Cambodian favourite, the BBQ station. We feasted on a selection of beef and the local favourites of innards, vegetables such as Ladies fingers and pak choi along with rice all washed down with some classic ABC stout beer. An end to an exhilarating day in Ratanakiri.

After a night staying at the comfortable Tree Top Ecolodge, a comfortable lodge of wooden bungalows set in a quiet wooded valley on the edge of town, it’s time to head towards home…. The road from Banlung to Steung Treng town is now wonderful paved highway and we made the journey in good time. Steung Treng’s market is alive and bustling, after a quick visit to the local market we made a stop at Cambodia’s most iconic singers old home, Sin Sisamouth, highlighted in the film Don’t Think I’ve Forgotten. It was decided to break up the long journey back to Siem Reap with a stop for the night on the banks of the mighty Mekong River. Tonight’s stop is at the Mekong Bird Resort, a quaint lodge with River views and solid wooden rooms, although service here could be a little improved upon it was a welcome respite from the road. In the late afternoon we went kayaking around the islands south of the Laos border in a Ramsar protected site, it was a wonderful experience and truly stunning with an abundance of birdlife present and magnificent Root systems of Gimenila trees as the current whisks you along.

After several hours we beached on a deserted island and enjoyed our own private BBQ as the sun slowly dropped into a spectacular sunset setting on another wonderful day in The Kingdom of Cambodia. What a fascinating loop around Cambodia’s wild East that we hope to share with you soon!